{"id":4706,"date":"2021-10-12T11:13:41","date_gmt":"2021-10-12T11:13:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/?p=4706"},"modified":"2021-10-12T11:44:35","modified_gmt":"2021-10-12T11:44:35","slug":"ammas-canteen-a-story-of-love-family-bonds-tossed-salads","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/culture\/ammas-canteen-a-story-of-love-family-bonds-tossed-salads\/","title":{"rendered":"At The Table with Amma&#8217;s Canteen: A story of love, family bonds &#038; tossed salads"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center\"><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\"><em>This is part of a series by Heidi Elkholy (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/saltfatacidheidi\/\">@saltfatacidheidi<\/a>) called At The Table that highlights Manchester\u2019s rich and diverse neighbourhoods, celebrating food, culture and&nbsp;community<\/em>. Previous feature: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/culture\/hq-nigerian-and-embracing-the-ugly-delicious\/\">HQ Nigerian<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Being around owners Ganga and Saju is like coming home during your uni Christmas\u00a0 break: there\u2019s warmth, knowing comments that push all the required buttons for the\u00a0 inevitable bursts of laughter, and mock-outrage. It\u2019s something special, and it\u2019s exactly\u00a0what you can expect when you visit them at Amma\u2019s Canteen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u2018When it comes to our dishes, we choose what we enjoyed growing up\u2019.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Amma means \u2018mother\u2019, and so it\u2019s not a great leap that the super-popular Alleppey fish\u00a0curry is based on Ganga\u2019s mum\u2019s recipe. Wild to think we\u2019re not just eating a curry, we\u2019re\u00a0eating a dish passed down through generations, where the nuances of flavour and trial and-error seasoning means everything is exactly how it should be. Saju\u2019s family\u2019s side\u00a0 also features on the menu, with recipes from his mother and aunts. It\u2019s like being invited\u00a0 to the table at a family reunion and stuffing your face with delicious, nurturing love. The\u00a0 recipes from Kerala, Chennai and Madras come straight via the family WhatsApp group.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3128-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"4709\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3128-scaled.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/?attachment_id=4709#main\" class=\"wp-image-4709\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3128-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3128-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3128-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3128-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3128-600x800.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3128-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-item__caption\">The Porucha Vendaka &#8211; okra fingers stuffed with a mixture of nuts, raisins and&nbsp; then fried to perfection<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3131-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"4710\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3131-scaled.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/?attachment_id=4710#main\" class=\"wp-image-4710\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3131-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3131-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3131-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3131-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3131-600x800.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3131-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>As well as the menu being an homage to the women in Saju and Ganga\u2019s lives, the&nbsp; restaurant floor is very much a family affair. Their daughter would work front-of-house&nbsp; before going to university, and the small team of floor staff have to go through every item&nbsp; on the menu for their staff lunches (the actual dream) so they are super-well-informed&nbsp; when dealing with customers.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Amma\u2019s mission is to dig the UK out of the very out-dated expectation of the &#8216;Curry&nbsp; House&#8217;, where every region in the world\u2019s seventh largest country is picked apart and then&nbsp; mashed together in a homogenised bastardisation of Chicken Tikka Masala.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u2018Our restaurant is not in the format of an Indian restaurant &#8211; we don\u2019t sell popadoms, and&nbsp; English people can walk in and find they don\u2019t recognise any of the dishes\u2019.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But they\u2019re not in a hurry to add Jalfrezis or Baltis to the menu, and don\u2019t get Saju started&nbsp; on naan bread: \u2018My mother first tried naan bread when she was 45! In South India, we&nbsp; don\u2019t have wheat farming so you won\u2019t get naan here.\u2019&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Saju\u2019s is a long and fancy relationship with food, having worked as a chef for 30 years in&nbsp; the swankiest hotels like the Taj group where the pressure was on to impress the&nbsp; celebrities and royalty that would visit. Unlike a typical Indian curry house with grandiose&nbsp; vibes, you won\u2019t find any imagery of fancy India at Amma\u2019s Canteen. The interior is warm&nbsp; and inviting but is decorated purposefully without rank, without pretence. Of the awards&nbsp; that this place has won, the only one Saju will display is the Vegan Offering of the Year&nbsp; award from Manchester Food and Drink Festival in 2019, \u2018Vegan food should not be an&nbsp; afterthought\u2019. Saju argues that the Indian caste system and the food associated with the&nbsp; highest caste has perpetuated the idea that India is the land of elephants and maharajas.&nbsp; \u2018India\u2019s got 600 million poor people and they eat delicious food everyday\u2026 That\u2019s the&nbsp;food we want to give\u2019&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Cue the \u2018From the Street Cart\u2019 section of the menu, where dreams come true. You\u2019ll also&nbsp; find a Curry, Biriyani and Dosa section of the menu, in lieu of the conventional (but not at&nbsp; all Indian) starter-main-dessert set up. I\u2019ve only ever made it past the street cart section&nbsp; once, and that was only because I was sated by the fact that there were enough of us at&nbsp;the table to ensure we could order everything. Super-standouts are the delightfully hot&nbsp; Chicken 65; the Porucha Vendaka &#8211; okra fingers stuffed with a mixture of nuts, raisins and&nbsp; then fried to perfection with an amazing chilli hummus. And if we could all just take a&nbsp; moment to appreciate the beauty that is Saju\u2019s Cauliflower Bezule: spiced cauliflower&nbsp; served with a tangy okra yoghurt dip that delivers a surprising amount of heat. Because&nbsp; they care about your experience so much, Ganga tells me this particular gem is not on&nbsp; the takeaway menu, but if you nag them enough they may oblige you. You\u2019re welcome.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery aligncenter columns-2 is-cropped\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3112-1-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"4713\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3112-1-scaled.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/?attachment_id=4713#main\" class=\"wp-image-4713\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3112-1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3112-1-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3112-1-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3112-1-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3112-1-600x800.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3112-1-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-item__caption\">Saju\u2019s Cauliflower Bezule<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3176-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"4712\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3176-scaled.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/?attachment_id=4712#main\" class=\"wp-image-4712\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3176-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3176-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3176-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3176-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3176-600x800.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/IMG_3176-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-item__caption\">Stuffed Kozhukattai<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>If you like dim sum, their Stuffed Kozhukattai, is a must-try. Home-made folded parcels of&nbsp; glutinous joy filled with veggie-chilli goodness and served with a dollop of what\u2019s called&nbsp; \u2018poor man\u2019s dip\u2019.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The biriyani is like the most delicious savoury trifle (stay with me) in that it\u2019s layers and&nbsp; layers of delightful tender lamb chunks, rice that is seasoned for the gods, and fried&nbsp; onions on top, hitting all those brown-mum nostalgia points.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We end on the topic of India\u2019s vast diversity. Some people describe countries that large as\u00a0 a \u2018melting pot\u2019, but Saju says \u2018a melting pot means assimilation but in India, every region\u00a0 has its own perfectly-formed culture and they\u2019re all mixed together, more like a tossed\u00a0 salad.\u2019 We then take a million photos of them and their waiter Harry, who is loved and\u00a0 ribbed mercilessly in equal measure. It\u2019s clear to see the team at Amma\u2019s Canteen is treated like an extended family, and we love to see it.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/e21685d0-049d-409c-b410-318794e9be9c-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4708\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/e21685d0-049d-409c-b410-318794e9be9c-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/e21685d0-049d-409c-b410-318794e9be9c-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/e21685d0-049d-409c-b410-318794e9be9c-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/e21685d0-049d-409c-b410-318794e9be9c-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/e21685d0-049d-409c-b410-318794e9be9c-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/e21685d0-049d-409c-b410-318794e9be9c.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>Ganga, Harry and Saju<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Opening times:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li>Tues-Thu 5-10pm&nbsp;<\/li><li>Fri-Sat 4-11pm&nbsp;<\/li><li>Sun 4-9pm&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Halal friendly, gluten free options \u2705<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This is part of a series by Heidi Elkholy (@saltfatacidheidi) called At The Table that highlights Manchester\u2019s rich and diverse neighbourhoods, celebrating food, culture and&nbsp;community. Previous feature: HQ Nigerian Being around owners Ganga and Saju is like coming home during your uni Christmas\u00a0 break: there\u2019s warmth, knowing comments that push all the required buttons for &#8230; <a title=\"At The Table with Amma&#8217;s Canteen: A story of love, family bonds &#038; tossed salads\" class=\"read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/culture\/ammas-canteen-a-story-of-love-family-bonds-tossed-salads\/\" aria-label=\"More on At The Table with Amma&#8217;s Canteen: A story of love, family bonds &#038; tossed salads\">Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":11,"featured_media":4707,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":""},"categories":[5,12],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v17.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>At The Table with Amma&#039;s Canteen: A story of love, family bonds &amp; tossed salads - EAT MCR<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.eatmcr.co.uk\/culture\/ammas-canteen-a-story-of-love-family-bonds-tossed-salads\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"At The Table with Amma&#039;s Canteen: A story of love, family bonds &amp; tossed salads - EAT MCR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"This is part of a series by Heidi Elkholy (@saltfatacidheidi) called At The Table that highlights Manchester\u2019s rich and diverse neighbourhoods, celebrating food, culture and&nbsp;community. 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